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Installation

How Your System Is Installed

Every home is different, and there is no single right way to route a whole-home system. Our licensed North Carolina plumber picks the cleanest, least invasive route for your house, and we walk you through it at the free water test.

Where will my system go?

Installation decision tree: where your whole-home water system goes.
Illustration only: a drawing of typical routes, not a specific install or a customer’s home. Tap to enlarge.

Step 1: find the main water shut-off valve. If there is room for the tanks right beside it, that is the direct fit: the shortest run, the easiest install, and nothing routed anywhere else. Most garages with the shut-off inside them are a direct fit.

Step 2: no room there, or you want it elsewhere? Garage, pantry, utility room: the house type decides the route.

Slab home with attic access

  • Attic bypass (main lines reachable)We tap into the main line, run the new lines up into the attic and across the ceiling, then drop them down into the garage or the chosen space. The treated line runs back the same way.
  • Exterior bypass (main line inside a finished wall)We go outside instead: tap into the main exterior line and bring the lines in through one tidy hole, straight into the garage or closet. No finished wall is opened.

Crawl space or basement

Under-floor routing, in four moves:

  1. Go down.Find where the main water line drops beneath the floor.
  2. Tap in.Cut into the main line underneath.
  3. Run under.Route the new lines along the floor joists to the room above.
  4. Pop up.Come up through the floor directly at the install spot.

Where does the drain go?

Drain options for a water softener or filtration system.
Illustration only: a drawing of typical routes, not a specific install or a customer’s home. Tap to enlarge.

Three rules that never change

  1. The best location.Ideally the system sits right where water enters the home. If there is no room there, we run bypass lines, for example up through the attic and down into the garage.
  2. The air gap.A 1.5-inch physical gap between the drain line and the drain it empties into. It is what stops wastewater or sewage from ever being siphoned back into your clean system, and every indoor connection gets one.
  3. The P-trap.A trap holds a pool of water that blocks sewer gas from coming back into the house. Every indoor sewer or laundry connection needs one.

Slab homes (garage or indoor utility)

  • Straight outside.We drill through the exterior wall and discharge into a garden bed or a natural area. Quick and effective.
  • Laundry or utility drain.We connect to the existing indoor plumbing, always with a P-trap and an air gap.
  • Attic bypass.If the shut-off is inside but the system goes in the garage, the lines bypass through the attic.

Crawl space or basement

  • Under-floor to exterior.The drain line runs under the floor and out through the foundation wall.
  • Tap into the existing sewer.The drain joins the main sewer line under the house, with its own P-trap and air gap.

Sump pits: read this first

  • Standard sump pump: no.Never drain into a groundwater sump pit. Salt water destroys the pump and ends up in the yard and the street.
  • Sealed sanitary ejector: yes.Only when it is a sealed ejector pump that actively sends waste to the city sewer system.

What does the install cost?

A garage or accessible-waterline install is included in the published price of every system.

All prices are for a garage or accessible waterline install. Crawl space, attic, outside or trenching installs add a $399 minimum, quoted on-site before any work begins.

Questions people ask before install day

Does it fit in a garage?

Yes. A whole-home system is a tank about the size of a water heater, plus a brine tank when there is a softener, and it goes beside the main shut-off in most garages. If there is no room there, the lines are routed to a pantry, closet or utility room instead.

Do you drill holes?

Sometimes, and only where the route needs it: one tidy hole through an exterior wall for a bypass or a drain line, or up through the floor from a crawl space. A finished wall is not opened unless there is no other route, and we tell you before we do anything.

Do I need to be home?

For the start and the finish, yes. Someone needs to let the plumber in and point out the shut-off, and at the end we walk you through the finished system. In between, you can get on with your day.

How long does installation take?

Most whole-home systems are a half day. A reverse osmosis drinking system under the sink is usually two to three hours. If you need both, plan on one full day.

Who does the installation?

A licensed North Carolina plumber. We don’t cut corners on who touches your water lines.

Find out what is in your water.

The route gets decided at the free in-home test, with you in the room. Fifteen minutes, no obligation.

35% Off + Free Reverse Osmosis Drinking System ($999 value)

Ends Oct 31.

City water or well?

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Consent is not required to submit this form or to buy anything from us.

By submitting, you also agree to our Terms of Service.

Offer ends October 31, 2026. We’ll call to set up your free water test.

Submitting this form is a request, not an appointment. We will confirm by phone, text or email. We never sell your information.

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BluePeak mascot holding a sign: Clean water doesn’t have to be a luxury

35% Off + Free Reverse Osmosis Drinking System ($999 value)

Ends Oct 31.

City water or well?

By submitting this form you agree to our Privacy Policy and SMS Terms.

Consent is not required to submit this form or to buy anything from us.

By submitting, you also agree to our Terms of Service.

Offer ends October 31, 2026. We’ll call to set up your free water test.

Submitting this form is a request, not an appointment. We will confirm by phone, text or email. We never sell your information.